MS vs. MW

Guest Blogger Doug Frost

For those of you who may not have heard of Doug, he is one of three people in the world to hold BOTH the Master Sommelier (MS) and Master of Wine (MW) accreditations. A professional writer, teacher, and advisor in the wine industry, Doug is also a major player, along with noted spirits guru F. Paul Pacult and others in Beverage Alcohol Resource (BAR), a professional organization offering training, education and certification in the fine spirits and mixology fields. Doug also happens to share many of our beliefs about the de-mystification of the enjoyment of wine, and is not easily offended by our sometimes irreverent observations and opinions. Without further ado, we present Mr. Doug Frost.

Which wine expert initials are better?

About once a month for the last nearly two decades, I have been asked the same question by a curious reporter or industry member: what's the difference between a Master Sommelier and a Master of Wine? And then, the follow-up, whether spoken or implied: which is harder?
The answer? It depends (you knew that was coming, didn't you?). If you have restaurant experience and expertise, you'll find the Master Sommelier exam to your liking. If your time in the wine industry is as a retailer, wholesaler or importer and if you like to write lucid, terse essays, you'll feel at home attacking the Master of Wine exam.

As one of the few people (so far, but that should change soon) who is both an MS and MW, I refuse to say which is more difficult. Why? Because, like I said, it depends. A wine professional, no matter how brilliant, can't (imho) pass the MS exam without extensive time on the restaurant floor. The greatest sommelier in the world can't pass the MW exam unless he or she studies essay writing and attains skill and expertise in that arena.

So each exam has its challenges; the impact of those challenges depends upon the test taker and to say one is harder than the other (as one of my fellow MS/MW's has maintained in the past) seems odd to me, like saying that playing cornerback is harder than playing running back.

But here's the interesting part: the Master Sommelier program has been far more successful in the U.S. than the MW program. While there are only about two dozen MW's in America, there are more than 100 American MS's. As the MS degree is based upon the skills crucial to the restaurant business and as the U.S. is rich in excellent restaurants (again, imho), lots of MS candidates can practice their skills and can achieve excellence. But skilled essay writers are in short supply, especially in the retail and wholesale sector. I'm not accusing; just saying.

Both the MS and the MW require a great deal of blind tasting, though the MW demands a far greater number of wines than the MS. These days the MW also includes a dissertation, which at a minimum lengthens the amount of time it takes to finish the MW. Is that why there are fewer American MW's?

Not really. There is a certain transparency to the MS program: there are lots of active, mentoring Master Sommeliers and the concept and practice of excellent wine service is no particular mystery. Writing a proper MW exam, well, it's not something most people understand unless they have made a detailed study of such essay writing. But just as there are sharp sommeliers throughout the country who are fighting to become MS's, there are equally smart folks who are working on their MW's. It's just a matter of time before there are plenty more of each. Heck, I've got my bets on a few specific men and women (sorry, no names) who will shortly become MS/MW's. Despite the more cynical attitudes out there, we're all eager to see that happen. Why? Most of us who become one or the other (or both) spend a lot of time helping others prepare and pass the tests. We could use some extra hands.

--Doug Frost, MS/MW
www.dougfrost.com

Preiss Imports Spirits Showcase at Anchor Brewing Company

For the most part, I try to avoid major spirits tastings because I don’t get to taste the really “rare” stuff and most of the “representatives” are hired based on eye appeal versus I.Q. Not to mention, when the general public is involved one is usually surrounded by a slew of drunks on a mission to consume as much whisky as possible trying to get their money’s worth. However, there are a few “trade only” shows each year that are well worth the trip and the Preiss Imports Spirits Showcase is indeed my favorite.

If you’re looking for high quality cocktail ingredients, or the rarest top shelf whiskies, brandies or liqueurs (as we always are), Preiss Imports has it all. The tasting shows off the latest wares in their entire portfolio; such as Duncan Taylor, BenRiach, GlenDronach whiskies, Leopold Gourmel and Forgotten Casks Cognac, Château du Breuil Calvados, Chinaco Tequila, Luxardo liqueurs and much more. This year, they had a few of San Francisco’s top mixologists from Bourbon & Branch and Rickhouse mix up some delightful cocktails featuring these rare spirits – what a nice surprise. In addition, this years’ tasting was held at the historic Anchor Steam Brewery in San Francisco. It was a treat to start our journey with a half pint of Liberty Ale (Anchor Steam’s extra-hoppy pale ale) before the festivities began.

A few highlights of the tasting were the Pages Parfait Amour violet liqueur – an amazingly intense yet balanced essence of violet – that made the best Aviation cocktail I’ve ever had (kudos to the boys at Bourbon & Branch). Also, the 1966 Lonach (Duncan Taylor) “Glendarroch” single malt whisky – a rare cask strength offering that was rich and powerful with layers of toffee and honeyed oatmeal and had a long decadent finish – don’t be surprised if this shows up in the next Bounty Hunter Whisky Runner Club shipment. Lastly, the Maurin Quina Le Puy – a sweet, white wine fortified with an infusion of wild cherries, bitter almond and quinine in a neutral grape spirit. Honestly, I have had a poster of this in my office for several years now and it was my first sip of the intriguing elixir. It’s a fantastic ingredient for a plethora of cocktails – simply said, it’s Kool-Aid for adults. There was so much “great stuff’ that, unfortunately, I can’t list it all in this forum. Stay tuned for some really cool new items available in the near future on our website.

After utilizing tremendous willpower to try and pace ourselves, we made it through the room without getting out of control. Speaking of which, we always bring along a designated driver to get us back to Napa safely – it’s always a very good idea.

--Stefan Matulich, Spirits Buyer

Raise a Glass… or Three!

One of the most anticipated tastings of the year was held at Fort Mason in San Francisco last week. The showcase of many of Italy’s finest wines known as Tre Bicchieri had buyers, restaurateurs, media and wine lovers roaming the sprawling event hall on the Bay with glasses in hand. The 150+ wineries in attendance had to have met a critical criterion in order to be invited to pour: a tre bicchieri (“three glass”) rating, the highest review possible from Gambero Rosso, Italy’s most influential wine publication. There aren’t many shaggy dogs in the room on that basis.

What separates this event from standard tastings – in addition to the pre-screened quality – is this sheer breadth of regions that are covered. Of course the usual suspects are there in full force, but dozens of obscure appellations and varietals are available to taste as well. Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna? Yep. Gewürztraminer grown in the shadow of the Alps? Also, yes. The list is endless. It is a truly astounding lineup that basically allows the ambitious taster the opportunity to traverse the entire country in a few hours. Some of the wineries in attendance don’t even have U.S. importers, so one is able to sample wines that would otherwise require a passport stamp.

I know of no other one-day event in the U.S. that provides such quality at every turn.

They’ve scaled back the tasting over the last few years to three cities: San Francisco, Chicago and New York. If you live or happen to be near one of these hubs when next year’s road trip commences, I’d highly recommend wrangling a ticket. For Italian wine lovers, this gig is a must.

--Rhett Gadke, Wine Director

Feel the Burn

It’s one of the hottest (if you’ll forgive a wine industry pun) topics in California today. Alcohol. “The cause of and solution to all of life’s problems”, according to philosopher Homer Simpson. Well, it does create something of a problem on the winemaking side of the ledger as anyone working in warmer climates will tell you. While generally not a huge issue in marginal regions like the Mosel in Germany or the Finger Lakes in upstate New York, there’s no doubting the potential for a runaway train where the sun shines brightly.

The last few decades in particular have seen a noticeable uptick in alcohol levels. Numerous fingers have been pointed. Everything from warming climates to attempts to appease critics partial to a full-blown style has been blamed. And while the root causes can be debated, the reality cannot. Wines from 25-30 years ago across regions and varietals simply had less alcohol – often a lot less alcohol - than they do today. So what’s the issue?

The most contentious debate exists among two more-or-less competing camps. The first is fairly dogmatic about lowering alcohols either by picking their fruit earlier or “spinning out” through reverse osmosis from a finished wine. This often dovetails with a stylistic philosophy that celebrates higher acidity in whites and reds, more ageworthy tannin structures and less oak treatment (especially new) in the cellar. Contrast this with the full-throttle crowd that celebrates often opulent ripeness and lavish new oak. More ripeness means higher sugars. Higher sugars mean higher alcohol after fermentation is complete. One can see how a lot of decisions about where to take a wine’s octane level take place before the grapes ever hit the cellar. And not for nothing, but, and I’m painting with a broad brush here, the flashier wines are usually the ones consumers want. So a winemaker philosophically opposed to high alcohol may not have a choice if he or she wants to remain employed.

The heart of the matter is the question of how the wine tastes. I have sampled Cabernets pushing 16% that don’t have the slightest perception of ‘heat” or out-of-balance alcohol. Conversely, there are wines floating around out there in the 13%-13.5% range that taste like the barrels were topped off with moonshine. My personal rule of thumb is that if it tastes hot, it is hot. Alcohol, like fruit, tannin, color, etc. is part an overall impression that needs balance and cohesion to succeed. So I think that like the brave souls who put down their refractometers to measure grape sugars in the vineyard and started picking on flavor, maybe a similar approach should be undertaken in the cellar. Drop the paint-by-numbers approach that sets either a minimum or maximum alcohol content and start focusing in on what ends up in the glass. Then I think we’re all winners.

--Rhett Gadke, Wine Director

Winter Gazette Tasting

We sat down last week and tasted through almost 75 new wines that are featured in the Bounty Hunter Winter Gazette. With 35 wines to taste in one sitting, we began with the whites and then worked our way up the gamut of reds, starting with the lighter-bodied wines and finishing with the big, hearty Cabs. While suffering for your sake with a wine glass in one hand, we had a pen in the other scribbling notes as fast as the wine flowed. It was a grueling job, but somehow we managed to survive.

While every Wine Scout had his or her own personal favorite, the standout wines for me were the three on page two showcasing “All-star” winemaker, Philippe Melka. The ’08 Parallel Cabernet is a phenomenal follow-up to their amazing ’07 vintage, while the ’07 “Facets of Gemstone” is a first-class wine for a second label by anyone’s standards. Finally, the ’07 Lail “J. Daniel Cuvee” Cabernet left us all speechless! Sampling all three wines is easy with the Marvelous Melka 3-pack. This is just the tip of the iceberg in this new edition. There are lots of big-scoring, rare gems and every-day drinking value-wines that you’ll enjoy. Your copy of the Gazette should arrive in your mailbox any day now, and when it does, you can rest assured that your Wine Scout is ready to answer your call!

--Sam Miller, Wine Scout

In Vino Unitas

The only way to stay on top of the game it to taste. Constantly. There’s nothing like getting acquainted with the goods to see who is doing what and where the next great discovery is likely to appear. And one of the best forums to taste a lot of wine in one setting is an event like the one the collective marketing group “In Vino Unitas” put on at the Westin Verasa in Napa. It’s a chance to get some face time with suppliers and knock out a lot of sniff and swirl sessions in one afternoon. Here are a few thoughts and highlights:

- The quiet renaissance of “Bonny’s Vineyard” made legendary by Silver Oak is worth noting for fans of that house. The Meyer family kept the property when the winery was sold some years ago, and are once again making brawny Cabernet from that site. What was unofficially “Reserve” Silver Oak last seen in the ’91 vintage is back in play.

- Ann Kraemer’s Shake Ridge Vineyard continues to distance itself from the pack in Amador. A charming woman and serious farmer – she used to tend to the precious plants at Cain, Calera and Shafer – it’s a Secretariat at the ’73 Belmont situation relative to her neighbors. She’s just doing things on another level up in Gold Country.

- Gargiulo Vineyards “Aprile” continues to be one of the finest Sangiovese-based wines made in California. It flies in the face of conventional wisdom that the famous Italian varietal can’t succeed in the U.S. Take a sip of their ’07 and tell me that it can’t be done well.

- The second label for Gemstone Vineyard known as “Facets” may have been the star of the show (and at $75 a relative bargain compared to a lot of the wine on display). The ’08 was unreal. The depth, concentration and texture are off the charts, a real testament to the winemaking skill of Philippe Melka. We are definitely going to take a position on it before the press gets it.

- Heidi Barrett’s “Moscato d’Azul” (made from Muscat Canelli) under the La Sirena label remains one of the most fun and unique whites in Napa Valley. Crisp and delicious with just a little hit of sugar, this is a guilty pleasure that seems to appeal to the wine geek and novice alike. I have visions of mermaids and hot tubs…

- There was a newbie in the room called Quill that was getting some buzz. Their Cabernets from Howell and Diamond Mountains have a lot going on. They’re not cheap at $95, but in fairness, they taste expensive. With Ehren Jordan of Turley Cellars fame taking the helm in the cellar, we suspect good things are in store for this house.

- Perhaps the biggest surprise was Team Bounty Hunter’s favorite white in the room… the ’07 Mayacamas Sauvignon Blanc. Don’t let the vintage fool you – it’s a current release. It’s incredibly clean and enjoyable. They make very little, but if you see it, try it. It’s well worth a cork pull.

Stay tuned on the tasting front as we’re gearing up next week for Frederick Wildman’s 2009 Burgundy showcase in San Francisco. It should be a seriously enjoyable afternoon. We continue to suffer for your benefit…

--Rhett Gadke, Wine Director

How Do You Like It - Bold or Blah?

We came across an interesting article yesterday by Dan Berger, a well known local wine writer, regarding what he calls “The Blanding of American Wine.”

Dan decries what many of us in the wine industry see as a move towards making wines that “fit” a formulaic style that seems geared towards a mass-produced “flavor” profile of high alcohol, highly-extracted massive wines with little sense of place or individuality. Many previously great wines have become caricatures of their former selves, and seem aimed at garnering scores and press-driven marketing hoopla rather than being authentic expressions of terroir, varietal, clone and winemaker.

We tend to agree somewhat with Dan’s position. After tasting thousands of wines each year for our customers’ benefit (research is SO difficult), we have seen our share of over-the-top, amorphous juice that all seems to taste pretty much the same after a while. That’s why we are always on the lookout for something new, different, and, above all, great tasting wines that deliver value-per-dollar.

But, we also recognize that sometimes some folks will chase wines based on press and what they are told they SHOULD like. And, in this final point, we agree with Dan Berger: “About matters of taste there is no debate.”

What do you think?